My very first L'Eid Kbir! Yay Meat!

Last Wednesday was the Islamic holiday of L’Eid Kbir (Big Celebration). This is the holiday in which they remember Abraham’s sacrifice and they too slaughter sheep! It’s one long, fun, filled day of killing and eating sheep or goats. Reminded me a lot of Thanksgiving in that family travels to be together and most of the day is spent eating, talking, napping, and sometimes watching football (soccer!). Sound familiar?

Let me recap how I spent my first L’Eid. It started the day before when one of my friends in town came over to do henna on my hands. I was in the middle of making the best pasta/cheesy dish and told her I’d head over after I was done eating. After I get to her house, she meant business. She had the henna, her needle, and everything set. I love getting henna done by her, because she’s pretty creative and she had the English movie channel on… I got to watch an hour of Two Weeks Notice and felt right at home.

Afterwards I headed to my host family’s house to ask what time to show up the next morning. My host dad said oh 7:30 is a good time, but you have to eat dinner tonight! I ask my host mom… her answer 6:30. I was like Whoa whoa…. That’s early, Dad said 7:30! She compromised and decided on 7. The nice thing about Moroccans and setting times… usually you can get away with coming later, earlier… whenever you want. So 7 meant I was coming at 7:30. Ha

I had dinner that night with my host family and it proved to be a preview of the day to come. Dinner was tagine. Tagine usually has meat, potatoes, onion, and other various veggies sitting in a pool of oil and spices. This tagine was basically just meat. A purely meat tagine, with one little onion cooked on top of it. How my household divides the meat is… every veggie is eaten first (we eat everything using bread, no forks, no knives, NO) and then the meat is divided equally by someone at the table (usually my host mom or aunt). That night we divided the tagine by 8 people and I had enough meat that I couldn’t hold it all in one hand. Times that much by 8 and that’s how much meat was in that tagine. It was probably half a small goat (that’s an exaggeration for sure).

The next day I woke up at 6:30. I was dragging, but threw on my awesome tejlabit (check out flickr pics, it’s like a big one piece w/ a hood), put in the contacts (lots of pictures were to be taken, must look fancy for family events), and made myself a cup of instant coffee.

As I walked to my host family’s house, I was greeted with many hellos and Mbruk Laweshk. (which is just a way of saying happy celebration, it’d be like saying Happy Thanksgiving or Merry Christmas). I also got tons of funny looks, smiles, confused faces, because every time I throw on the traditional Moroccan dress I get even more attention. Look at the crazy foreign lady wearing the tejlabit! Silly foreigner. Indeed, I am that.

When I got to the host family’s at 7:20… of course no one was ready or even started thinking about breakfast yet. And to think my host mom thought 6:30 was a good time! Ha! I sat around for a while watching the morning news and decided to head over to the friends who did my henna. There I had another cup of coffee, amazing cake/bread, and more plain bread with oil. That was my first breakfast of the day… My second was cookies, tea, and more bread at my host family’s. They also had rice, but I have become very skilled in refusing food.

After breakfast, the family photo shoot started. I knew I’d be taking lots of pictures that day and would be taking tons of requests from my family and other friends. This is when the attempted matchmaking by my cousins began! I had one time! ONE TIME! Asked about where this older guy cousin of mine was and ever since his sister brings him up every time I see her. It was pretty cute and funny… at first. So this guy had come to town for the holiday and the sister was insisting that he and I take a picture together. I was like “uh… okay… but hey you get in” and I’d grab another cousin or someone. Well they managed to get a picture of just the two of us and I look frustrated and he looks a little annoyed himself. We may not speak the same language, but we were certainly on the same page. Stupid little sisters/cousins!

Finally we all started walking to where the town gathers to pray together for these holidays. We kinda, sorta, missed it. Oops. As we made it through town everyone was already walking back. I did observe the community prayer for L’Eid Sgir, so it wasn’t such a big deal.

Back at the house I started getting antsy waiting for the actual slaughter. I heard that people will wait until the King slaughters his goat/ram and it’s broadcasted on television. I went with a cousin down to where our family keeps its animals and my uncle had already started on his family’s huge goat! The first thing I noticed was how incredibly red and bright the goat’s blood was and the poor thing’s tongue was sticking out.

Here’s a basic how to slaughter a sheep/goat:

1. Don’t let them eat for at least 24 hours. Have to make sure the inner piping is as clean as you can... this reduces the chances of bacteria infecting the meat SIDENOTE** (there was still A LOT of digested food/ crap in the stomach/intestines)

2. Pose for pictures with the animal.

3. Pin animal to the ground, facing Mecca, and slit throat.

4. Keep animal pinned down while it bleeds and kicks around, pose for more pictures.

5. After animal has finally gone to the other side, make a small slit near the ankle of one hind leg.

6. Use bike pump to pump air into slit thus separating the skin from the meat.

7. After bike pump breaks, use your mouth! The animal is like a balloon!

8. When you are satisfied with the amount of air between skin and meat start removing the hide using a knife.

9. Break the hind leg and hang the animal up by its tendon. Oof.

10. Little by little remove the hide. Oh and head on or off at this point is optional… (uncle left the head on.. host family removed it right away)

11. After hide is completely off… pose for pictures! Insist the crazy American touches the animal in one picture.

12. Slit underside of animal… watch intestines and other inside bits fall out.

13. Throw water all over the animal and try to keep the insides clean as the intestine is removed first.

14. Remove all inside bits, wash stomachs out, and get ready to start making kebabs!

So I watched two animals meet their ends and I was surprised by how little the gore fazed me. Sure there was a lot of blood and watching them break the hind legs was a little rough, but all in all I enjoyed being a part of the process. I felt like part of the family and was happy that I could take pictures for the family. Also the nerdy biology part of me was really excited about seeing the different organs and how they’re all connected. Where’s the heart?! Lungs?! What is that?!!! I had fun.

When it came down to eating our ram and goat… the insides are eaten first. This means liver, lungs, heart, stomach, and all that fat. They cooked everything over coals and seasoned with salt and cumin. I already knew that I hate liver! Stomach! Yuck! And I’m not a huge fan of eating just a hunk of fat either. My host dad read my mind, because he made me kebabs of just meat. I was very grateful. I did try the heart, which was rather tasty. At one point I did eat something that took me almost 5 minutes of chewing before I had to swallow it whole. That was rough.

After the first round of meat with the host family, I walked around town to other families. I was lucky enough to only have to drink two cups of tea and eat one piece of liver. Again, I’ve gotten good at the food refusal dance.

When I headed back to my host family’s for dinner… I knocked on the door... No answer. Again... nothing. The neighbor lady across the street yells at me... Just go in! It’s your house too! And so yeah, she’s right... I head in. I walk down the stairs and go to the back room. I walk in and everyone in my family is sleeping. The room is completely full with sleeping people. It was 7:30pm… I was so confused. Why are they all sleeping right now? I shrug to myself and make a “Well, now what do I do face”. One of the little girls pops her head up and starts bursting with laughter. Every one of my family members starts popping up from under blankets, laughing hysterically. Yes! My Moroccan family played a prank on me. For a half hour, my host mom kept making impressions of my face and laughing to herself. It was a pretty great moment… you know you’re part of the family when they start playing jokes on you. Least I hope so… ha.

Later that night was round two of inside kebabs. My uncle and host dad had their respective stations and had a rhythm going. They used the all-purpose tables and had the meat just sitting there. The liver and lungs were slightly cooked and then wrapped in fat and cooked again. As kebabs were finished my host mom would go from person to person and they would grab a piece of meat of the skewer using bread. If a lot were done at once, everyone got their own. I think for lunch I had 3 full skewers and 2 for dinner.

The next day I spent both lunch and dinner with my host family. I tried brains… almost puked brains. Not a texture I would call appetizing.

All in all it was a really good experience that I won’t forget. I was afraid of getting sick, because of the less than sanitary meat handling practices. We were warned that a lot of volunteers have digestive issues after L’Eid, but L’hamdullah I did not get sick.

Now I’m looking forward to our own Turkey day. I will be heading to the gorgeous Bougamez valley and excited to eat the turkey that the volunteers bought. I wonder how close to a Butterball it is. Hope everyone at home as a wonderful holiday. Words cannot express how much I wish I were in Illinois for the holidays, but the nice thing about Peace Corps is that we’re a family too. So don’t worry about me… I’ll be with family.

The Many Colorful Backgrounds of Peace Corps Volunteers

Since I finally bought a modem and the first month is free… I’ve been on a lot lately. Too much time I say! And usually the internet works in spurts of a half hour here, half hour there. Other times I’m walking in circles on my roof looking for the sweet spot. Why do I bring this up? Well after my last post, I got bored… read one of my very first posts.

The post was about things I thought I might miss and what I was looking forward to the most. The part of that post that really made me chuckle was I said I was looking forward to meeting the other volunteers and I wondered if any would be crazy like me… I could not have guessed then the amount of characters I’ve met through this whole process. I say characters in a very endearing way.

I’m trying to remember before I joined the Peace Corps what I thought actual volunteers must be like, in a very general, stereotyping way. Well Peace Corps is competitive… and before I came I thought this process was cut throat. So I assumed volunteers here must have an open mind, sense of adventure, smart, hard workers, nailed the interviews, and specifically to health I thought… well no way you’re in health without having some sort of background in health. I mean they should have volunteered in some way before right? Well let’s just say our health staj (training group) was so much more hodge podge, out of left field, group of people than I expected. Like I said we’ve got some characters.

Also I’m writing this just to be some sort of support to people who want to join Peace Corps, but might think they haven’t done enough or taken a language or any reason you might doubt being accepted. It’s amazing the diversity that Peace Corps has and Morocco has it all.

I’ll start in Azilal province, because we definitely have a lot of diversity. First off we have the oldest volunteer ever in the Peace Corps (86 I think?) and the youngest volunteer for Morocco (Just turned 21 or 22 I forget…?)! So the age range right there says a lot. There are quite a few of us straight out of college, but more than I expected in the late 20’s early 30’s range. One guy in health was a history major and sold insurance in a mall before coming! One health girl studied forensics and for a time volunteered in an orphanage in the Dominican Republic. We have a civil engineer in Azilal and an officer in the Air Force turned journalist. The small business development volunteer left a job in the banking/the money industry (I’m so bad with economics, I have no idea what she did. Financial advisor? Something that made lots of money). One youth development volunteer has a masters in War Studies from a college in London.

Our crew comes from all over the States. West coast has a strong showing, throw some Texas in there, Midwest represents with Illinois and Wisconsin, then head out to Philadelphia and Boston. We’re from all over!

So even just in Azilal we all have pretty interesting, diverse backgrounds. A few other stand outs in our health training group… There is a veterinarian, a retired couple who decided to join later in life, because their son joined and had such a good experience, a lot of people with backgrounds working with HIV/Aids either in clinics or outreach, a few who studied classical Arabic in either Jordan or Lebanon, people who have lived all over the world, Singapore, Italy, France, and some like me who have barely made it out of their state.

Just like the differences in our backgrounds, a lot of us come for so many different reasons. Sometimes with us newbies out of college… It’s a I have no idea what else to do now sort of thing. Sometimes Peace Corps is the stepping stone to working in the Foreign Service. A lot of times, it’s an adventure, I’ve always wanted to try this thing. So so many reasons.

I like to think I came here for the right reasons and I will stay for the right reasons. I struggled a lot with my reasons for coming and how those reasons have changed and evolved. Some of them… like the big one… I have no idea what I’m doing in life, so I’ll take 2 years to try and figure that out… Well I figured that out. The big one and after you figure out the big one… well now I feel like I should be doing, what I just figured out. Getting closer to that ultimate goal. And so I had to re-evaluate my experience here and what I wanted from it.

I mentioned to a friend that I thought about leaving early after a year of service, if my current situation hadn’t changed at all. This friend’s response was “So you can do that. You can leave? I had no idea.”. And I write that because I think a lot of people at home might think similarly. This is a volunteer program and yeah for many different reasons volunteers may choose to or have to leave early. I gave myself such a hard time, because I didn’t want to feel like I was giving up or quitting. But honestly with all the different reasons for joining Peace Corps, I say if ever a volunteer’s reasons become resolved or change or they’re just plain unhappy… then you should have all the support in the world from Peace Corps and home on making the decision to return early or not.

In Azilal province, there was a health volunteer who ended his service early and I only got to know him for a month or two. He explained that he had gotten from this experience all he had come for and had hoped for. He didn’t need the two years to accomplish what he wanted and had some great oppurtunities and relationships waiting at home. At the time I didn’t think badly of this person, but I’m not sure I fully understood, until I started having similar feelings. It’s amazing the ups and downs of this experience.

But! Again I write all this to be a support to other volunteers, other hopefuls, and to myself when I have a bad day and am too tired or frustrated to remember all this. Also isn’t it pretty cool we have a 80 something volunteer in Morocco! That’s like saying hey Mom wanna join the Peace Corps when I’m older than you are now! Shoot! I can’t imagine my 80 year old self thinking learning a new language is a good idea… No sir. Even if I’m only in my 60’s and retired… no thanks. So we’re a pretty cool bunch and I hope that this short post paints a picture of Peace Corps Morocco for you all.

Adventures with the Brits

It has been a busy month and a half and hence I haven’t written in a while. I apologize, but I’ll try to make these next updates worth the wait. I left off with how Operation Smile went and I just want to say again how great of an experience it was.

So what happened after Operation Smile? Oh you know… just helped host a group of British teens and helped them build a bathroom. Very random, fun experience, which I wasn’t even going to be a part of until the day before. Such is my life in Morocco. The best adventures so far are the ones not planned for. But let me explain how I got involved with this bathroom project…

An environment volunteer about 2 hours away from my site, texted saying she had a group of British people coming to build a bathroom and wanted to know if I could help her translate between the kids and the builder. I had been working out of site a lot lately, but decided to go for. **Side note: Pretty sure landlord was/is taking advantage of my foreigner status and getting me to pay wayyyy too much for electricity. So I reduced my usage to almost nothing… I was desperate to leave site. **

When I got to her site, she gave me the full scoop on what we were doing, since I basically said yes having no real idea of what was going on. Good times. She had met a Scottish guy who owns a rafting company in Morocco, who has a friend in London who works for an adventure company. This guy’s company takes British teens/young adults to developing countries where they first do a development project, which they fund, and then do a hike or some other outdoorsy wilderness type of adventure. So through the wonders of networking, this PCV got a bathroom project funded in one of her outlying villages. The kids would be coming to her site and would help build a bathroom at a two room school.

Believe me I was excited. A SUV and a mini-bus pulled into this tiny mountain village and they drew a crowd. I think every village boy was around the bus trying to discover what was going on. It was a weird feeling of being in a huge crowd of non-Moroccans. Once in a while I would approach one of the boys and start speaking Tamazight. They were quite surprised by that little trick.

The first day on the bathroom project went well. The walls went up, half of the pit was dug, a door was painted, and kids were entertained by a Frisbee. The next day rained and threw a kink into the groups plan. I left the kids later that day and last I heard they all decided to head back to Marrakech. They were great group of kids, but not quite what I would call the mountain hiking types. I mean they were from London. True city kids.

Random right? Well it gets even crazier, because that wasn’t my last adventure with Brits. Nope! The month ended with my best experience in Morocco! Thank you Scottish guy with the rafting company and environment PCV.

So our In-Service Training started November 1^st and so we had to be at the hotel on Halloween. I decided to go to Marrakech a day early to hang out with friends, relax, and just enjoy city life (i.e. McDonalds and adult beverages). I was waiting in Ouaouizerth around noonish and going to head north to the big town of Beni Mellal, take a bus, the usual. As I was waiting, the environment volunteer I had just helped out pulls into the taxi stand and is also heading to Marrakech, but going a different way. We catch up about how the rest of the bathroom project is going and she convinces me to head to Azilal and so we can travel with another guy volunteer in our province. I say… Why not!

It turns out we had to buy out the whole cab the three of us… but so worth it. Then she convinces me to come see the Riad (nice house/hotel) she always stays at, who is owned by the Scottish rafting guy. It didn’t take much convincing, I’d heard a lot about it and he was also nice enough to host a Halloween party for PCV’s the next day. I was hoping to join this party, so of course I wanted to see where it would be.

It was tucked into the medina and souk area. The souk in Marrakech is a wonderful maze and this guy did good finding a great place. His riad has…. A flat screen! What? Comforters on the beds? Three levels? What luxury for a PCV like myself and I was handed a beer when I walked in the door. It doesn’t get much better than that.

After hanging out a bit, the Scottish guy brings up to the environment volunteer that tomorrow he is going to be hosting two British celebrities for their television show. They wanted to do an adventure themed show and would be featuring his company. Now this is really cool in itself, but it gets better… For the filming they needed four extras! Just turns out that there were four of us PCVs staying at his place that night.

Yep people! I went white water tubing (nope, not rafting) for free and will be on British television in April or May on a show called Location, Location, Location with Kristi and Phil. It was amazing! We went an hour outside of Marrakech to Ourika Valley and got to go tubing. I had a wet suit, helmet, and the whole nine-yards. The river was a little low, because November is just the beginning of the season, but there was still quite a bit of white water.

It’s official… I’m an adrenaline junky. There were always hints of this… sky diving, driving too fast... oops, and well yeah other things. But whenever I have money to blow on vacations, my vacations will probably have some sort of adventure element. I really want to go white water rafting now and tubing is even more intense I think.

So those were my October adventures with the Brits and when I visit Chloe in December I’m sure there will be plenty more. I mean I’ll be in their backyard and New Years in the UK again! Adventures will be had.

Not quite half a health hike, Operation Smile, and Adventure planning

It’s been about a month since I last blogged. Quite a bit has happened. First I made it through my first Ramadan. It ended on a Friday with the Eid Sgir, (Little Celebration), which meant I got to enjoy eating tons of carbs in the morning with all the neighbor ladies. After we stuffed ourselves with food, everyone started to walk towards the town gathering point, which was sorta like a field, more like a huge dirt area on the edge of town. It felt like I was going to church. I had on my nicest Moroccan outfit, went with the family, and I watched a lot of towns people pray all together. It felt even more like church seeing all the kids running around, not really paying attention. Some were blowing whistles or running around with popsicles (that part and the heat made it feel like the Fourth of July, just missing the fireworks).

It was a great cultural experience, which is hard to really describe. A combination of many different experiences and holidays at home. I’m looking forward to the Eid Kbir (Big celebration), which is around the 18th of November. This I have a feeling will be similar to Thanksgiving. A day where the whole family tries to be together, no matter how far the travel and gorge themselves on food. In Morocco however, the food part of “Thanksgiving” is mostly meat. Meaning Moroccans will buy and slaughter all the sheep, goats, and other things their families can eat. I’m nervous and intrigued to experience Meat Fest. Also I obviously need/want to learn more about the significance of this holiday in the Islamic faith.

The big event I had been looking forward to after the end of Ramadan was the Health and Environment Hike through the Atlas Mountains. All newbies to the Azilal province had been told about the hike way back in March and I’d been looking forward to it ever since. I mean I’m here in Morocco, in the mountains, and hoping to do some real hiking and some real work. The goal of this hike is to go into schools and do health lessons, which otherwise aren’t easy to access or usually visited by volunteers.

So 6 months later it was finally time for the hike and let’s just say we were all pretty unorganized. Conversations about the hike with other volunteers usually went like this… “Do you know how many schools we’re going to?”. “Nope. You have a lessoned planned?.” “Sorta? Do you know what Volunteer 1 is teaching?”. “Nope”. Azilal providence has some very intelligent, talented, unique individuals, but doesn’t mean we’re the most organized. So I had my reservations. We only had one volunteer with us who had done the hike the previous year, so a lot of the responsibility rested on her shoulders, but we all managed to get our stuff together and put together some good health lessons, including a mini play about germs, a trash game, and a riveting tooth brushing lesson.

The first 3 days were spent in the twin valleys in Azilal providence, Bougamez and Boulli. Gorgeous sites with some very lucky volunteers. But like the title implies, I did not make it through the whole health hike. One previous volunteer who had been on the hike jokingly told me in May that we had all better start working on getting in shape for the hike then. Of course I figured it’d be hard and that I would try to do hiking around my site before the real deal, but because of the heat I never got motivated to work out or hike much. So let’s just say I underestimated my desire or physical ability to do the health hike.

On the second day, we spent half of it doing a 24-26 kilometer (around 15 miles) hike from one valley to the other. The volunteer (guy volunteer who runs a lot) said he usually does it in 4 hours, so I was thinking it’d take me maybe 5? Well maybe 2 of those hours were spent going uphill, up a mountain to be exact. You could compare it to being on a treadmill that’s outside, under the sun, walking at an incline of almost 8 (out of 10) and carrying a pack on your back maybe weighing close to 20 pounds, and like a dummie I wore my Choco sandals, not shoes. My body and feet weren’t prepared. Oh and side note this is after doing a 3 hour hike to and from a school we taught at in the morning.

Most of us were hurting at the end of the hike, but I was really dragging. I never really had hiked before this, I mean Illinois isn’t known for its mountain range or hiking. So at the end of the night I was crabby, tired, hurting beyond belief and pretty sure I was done for. The next morning when I woke up and could barely move I was so stiff and sore was the deciding factor. My feet felt like they did the night before, like I wish they would just fall off so the pain would stop. It’s been almost 4 days since then and I’m still walking with a slight limp. I compare it to having shin splints and it might actually be the same cause… who knows. I just know that no time soon will I be doing a hike from Boulli to Bougamez and if I would have continued I probably would have asked the other volunteers to just leave me somewhere in the mountains. They left the day after we taught in Bougamez at 4 in the morning to start their 2 day hike through the mountains to the next town. Oh and that day was supposed to be much more intense then the first day… haha Yeah I’m glad I didn’t keep going.

One great thing about the hike was having that first glimpse of teaching in the schools. 3 volunteers and I performed a play and the kids got a real quick out of it. At the end we ask questions and it was great seeing the students respond and see that they understood. Our message was simple (Wash your hands before you eat), but it was fun and I enjoyed it. It just made me want to get back to my site, to start working on getting into the schools here. I enjoy teaching, I enjoy being in front of a class, and I’m starting to have enough confidence in my language skills that I think I could be good at it. Getting permission to go into the schools is still a work in progress, we’ll see how it goes…

The next big thing I’m looking forward to is Operation Smile, which is taking place in our province capital. Operation Smile is an non-government organization (NGO) and they are bringing doctors, nurses, and volunteers into Azilal for a week to help children and adults with physical deformities like cleft lips, palates, and burns. They want to perform up to 120 surgeries and they are doing all this for free, providing food and housing for patients. As a volunteer I’ll be helping families with forms the first day and then working with the kids right before they go into surgery. I see this as an opportunity to work with a well known NGO, doctors and nurses, use my language, and get to be part of an important, organized event. It’s a week long and will be tough to be out of site that long, but it’ll be nice to be working.

While all this is going on I have also been doing a lot of adventure planning. At the end of the month all the new health/environment volunteers will be back together in Marrakech for In Service Training. Then for Thanksgiving, I’ll be traveling through part of Europe! Taking a train from Spain to the Czech Republic to visit a college friend, lucky enough to be studying abroad. Then for Christmas, it’s back to the UK for me. Spending Christmas with one of my best friends and her family and hopefully going to the Green Isle (Ireland) for New Years?

A lot of adventuring is planned, but there are still tons of question marks in those plans, which is exciting. One of my reasons for joining the Peace Corps was the opportunity to travel and I’m glad I’m getting to have these experiences now. I’m looking forward to hopefully finding meaningful work in my site, but for now I’ll settle for some amazing adventures I would never have otherwise been able to have time or money for. Thank you Peace Corps for making my travel bug happy. So that’s just a little bit of what’s been going on, hope you enjoyed.

Counting down the last week and a half of Ramadan...

I have my very first Ramadan almost under my belt and I think that’s sufficient enough time to write about my observations, adventures (or lack thereof), and miscellaneous musings. So here are the very basics of Ramadan and how I thought it would pertain to me and my site…

Ramadan! Muslim holiday characterized by a month of fasting! Goes by the Islamic calendar and this year it was August 13thish to September 10thish (Moon decides when it starts and stops). Next year it will be earlier! HOLY COW, even hotter then. Fasting starts from where there is only a line of light on the horizon until sunset. Around 4 in the morning to 7:30ish at night. No water! No food! Nothing!

Who fasts? Not kids, until they become teenagers. Pregnant women, women who are nursing, sick people, very old people are not required to fast by the Koran. The Koran says these individuals (minus the old dudes, pretty sure I’m right on this) will make up for it later in the year, but not just fast for one month… 2 or 3 months are required? Or by giving alms and it’s a lot. I think you have to feed 30 people for every DAY you miss fasting. I dunno there are so many ways to get around actually fasting and making it up later.

But! Just because the Koran says these people are exempt doesn’t mean that they actually forego fasting. Unfortunately there are a lot of older individuals who still fast and even quite a few nursing women (yet to see a pregnant woman who is fasting, but I’ve heard it happens). Ramadan during a hot month such as this year’s can be dangerous for these individuals. This is a time when some older folk tend to kick the bucket, but the nice thing is the Koran says if you die during Ramadan it is a straight ticket to heaven. So hey! Not such a bad time to go. All that aside, Ramadan is a month of denying the body and being closer to God.

So those are the very very short basics. How did I think this would affect me exactly or what was I expecting to happen in my site? Well first off through different training sessions and talks with other volunteers, I sort of had a lot of expectations for Ramadan. Most of them weren’t great either, but just like everything in Peace Corps everyone’s experience is so different and my Ramadan so far hasn’t been quite what I expected. Since no one eats during the day, cafes are closed and I kept hearing that basically everything just comes to a standstill during Ramadan. Especially since this one was going to be hard, because of the weather, I expected everyone to be sleeping most of the time. I didn’t figure I’d see many people out or see many people traveling. I thought I’d be walking around a ghost town with little tumble weeds blowing in the wind. Well that definitely wasn’t the case in my site. Almost all the stores where open for a good portion of the day, men still gathered around the cafes (just not inside them or drinking tea), and kids are everywhere! Those boogers don’t have to fast so they’re out and playing for a good portion of the day. Still the level of activity was definitely less, but it wasn’t the stand still I thought it’d be. There were men still working construction ( don’t know how they do it), men working at the metal shops, and most other labor jobs in town. So that was a bit of a surprise.

From our last training in Ouarzazate, our staff were super supportive of us about to experience our first Ramadan. They said things like… “Sure you’ll be bored, but this is a great time to get invitations to meet families. During Ramadan people tend to be more giving, etc.” I was determined to be more sociable and go out, break fast with families and work on language. I thought I’d be walking down the streets and people would be waving and smiling (very miss guided, I know. I mean who’s going to be all smiley when they haven’t ate or drank in 13 hours). But I was hoping for the best. Families that would draw me in and make me talk to them. That and I had heard from different places that while the day may be slow, it’s a party at night when people hit the streets and mingle and eat and talk. Almost like a block party, just sort of town wide.

Well folks, I have managed to break fast with…. Drum roll…..still rolling…. TWO families. Hahaha Yep… I managed to get drawn in by two families, my host family and the family of a friend (who I’d had coffee and ate with numerous times). My experience will not put me on a list for super star volunteer, but my experience was my own and I don’t really regret it. I strayed out of my house around the invite time and was unsuccessful on a number of occasions. There just weren’t the smiley faces and the waving like I’d hoped. I even fasted for two days (haha I know that’s not much at all, but good for me considering I wasn’t going to even try), but still walking past houses looking thirsty and tired didn’t get me any random invites. There must be something about this face that just doesn’t look desperate or friendly enough. That or the more likely reason was that actually many of the women were already in the houses cooking when I wandered around and they’re tough cookies to crack anyway. I mean I don’t blame them. Who wants some awkward foreigner eating up all the figs or soup, pssh not me. Also I’m really beginning to enjoy experiementing with cooking and I prefer eating at home.

So what was breaking fast like with my two families? Both very different, so that’s been nice. **Side note.. I’ve still got a week or so to branch out… haha** My host family is a bit more serious? Everyone prayed right after the call to prayer announcing the time to break fast. Even the 9 year old did and I’d never seen my host mom pray before Ramadan. They had a variety of things to eat. Fresh figs and grapes are in season now. That’s been my favorite. The weirdest was probably stuffed bread, but it had chunks of fat mixed with the onions and peppers. Not pleasant.

The other family I fasted with didn’t pray or read from the Koran. They just dug into the food and in general joked around a lot more. They also have more kids and older ones, so the family dynamics are pretty different already between the two. Also some really interesting foods and juices served. The best was an eggplant, onion, pepper, tomato stew that we ate with bread. Weirdest was some chicken insides mixed with peppers. I heard crunching while people ate… I have no idea what it was. That’s the fun about Moroccan families and food, you never know what it’s going to be. Just plan on tea, Harira (hearty soup almost always served at break fast), and bread.

Ramadan has been going by faster than I thought, been in general better than I expected (even if I haven’t been that social… oops). I’ve read 4 books since the start of Ramadan, started composting (how do I find a way to get bags of dirt in my house, without being the weird American who’s stealing dirt from around town? Haven’t figured that out yet), attempted to haul rocks on a hike for the chicken coop (wasn’t fasting but got super sick, never again. I only have one rock for the coop), devoted one wall to putting up Tam, Arabic, and French lessons, so I can more easily study just by staring at the wall, and I’ve spent 3 full weeks in site. A new record. Oh and I can’t forget that I’ve made homemade pancakes, learned to love lentils, and finally posted a few pictures of my apartment.

All in all a relatively productive Ramadan thus far. It’s all about those little goals. I mean I talked about posting pictures of my apartment before Ouarzazate. Thanks for reading… hope you’re looking forward to the blog about the Little and Big Eid (Celebration). The little one happens the last day of Ramadan and the big one is in November (when everyone goes meat crazy and kills and eats everything). Well that last part was an exaggeration, but it’s a huge deal so be sure to follow up. The Muslim holidays are just beginning my friends!

Lounging on Leather Couches

I just returned back to site after being in Post Pre-Service Training (PPST) for about two weeks.  The health group was back in our old stomping ground of Ouarzazate, while environment spent their time in Azrou up north near Fez and Meknes.  Let’s just say a lot of our group was pretty jealous of the environment’s PPST location.  

Ouarzazate:  Also known as the gateway to the desert. Also known as cinema city.  HOT!!! Close to no other major city!!! 

Azrou: Relaxed bigger town, at the base of the mountains.  Within 2 hours of Fez and Meknes. (Have the best old roman ruins!) Great hiking. 

So yeah… we were a little jealous. Although we stayed at pretty swanky hotel with pool, air conditioning, and great beds.  I spent most of time lounging around in lobby using the free Wi-Fi.  The connection was all over the place, but that didn’t keep me from trying to download the numerous movies, music, etc. that I thought I’d need for my next 3 months in site.

But the point of this past two weeks wasn’t to download the whole It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia series (great show on FX), rather we all came together to learn about projects! Finally! Who’s done what, what can be done, where to start… all that jazz.

We had meetings from 8:30 each day till about 5:30ish with a decent sized lunch break in the middle.  It was like a normal person’s work day.  Quite exciting and new compared to the one hour shift I make for myself at the sbitar once a week when I decide to go… My definition of “work” is greatly redefined, but doesn’t mean I still don’t miss the old American mentality of what a “work day” really is.  Sure having conversations in Tamazight is mentally exhausting, just like some jobs and sure having tea with families could be considered like having meetings with potential project partners, but sometimes I still miss rolling out of bed at 7am to go work in the catering kitchen or maybe I just miss being accountable to other people besides myself.  Yeah that’s it. 

Well okay that’s not quite true.  I have some “bosses”.  I can’t just go AWOL and no one notice.  I occasionally have a meeting or two to make, for example these past two weeks.  Anyway that was quite the tangent….

So what did I learn from PPST?  First and foremost, it got me excited to be here again.  Really gave me a boost in confidence and fellow PCV’s and staff are all cheerleaders for each other.  It’s a time where we can all share the good, the bad, and the ugly.  I think like a lot of PCV’s, the whole reality of being here for two years sets in and PPST was a nice reminder of why I came in the first place.  

Personally for my site I got quite a few good potential project ideas and pet project ideas.  I don’t want to go into too many details, because the most important idea that was hammered home for me was that without finding motivated, trustworthy community counterparts no project can be truly sustainable and these counterparts can be a make it or break it for projects.  Which is another way of saying… if your community isn’t ready for change or the help, there isn’t much even the most motivated PCV can do.  This is especially true for volunteers in a new site like… wait for it……….. ME.  So I’m going to do my best to come out of my shell even more, make my identity just as present as my site mate’s, and work building the relationships.    

My pet project ideas on the other hand I’m pretty darn excited about sharing.  

1. Build a chicken coop? Buy and raise 3 chickens?

2. Start composting and figuring out how that all works.

3. Collect pictures of different foods and food groups for a potential project?

4. Start writing a book? So sure I barely write in my journal, but I’m trying to change that.

5. Raise rabbits?

Well that’s just a few of them and since Ramadan is coming up…  I have high hopes for at least the chicken coop.  Next I’ll try to start writing about my Ramadan experiences and if anyone doesn’t know about Ramadan, I suggest googling it.  I didn’t know all that much before I came here either.  I just know I’m not fasting and I won’t lie about it.  I can barely keep it together if I skip lunch, let alone not eat or drink from sunup to sundown in the summer! Also gorging myself at night to make up for not eating all day, doesn’t sound like much fun…I will hopefully be invited in to homes for breaking fast, so I’m excited to see what it’s like.  

Hope all is well in the states! I’ll have pictures up of the apartment soon.  It’s all coming together nicely.  Oh and I do have electricity and water all the time (well when it storms that’s different, just like home).  I use a Turkish toilet, I take bucket baths, I do my laundry by hand, and my refrigerator is the size of what most college kids use in the dorms (maybe smaller).  I still watch too much TV (on my laptop) and procrastinate way too much, but on the other hand I have read 6 books so far (maybe more), I’ve watched quite a few documentaries, oh and learned another language (sort of).  So it’s all balancing out and I’m hoping to kick my productivity into gear (notice how I didn’t say back into gear, not sure it ever was in gear… haha).  The above for mentioned pet projects and enthusiasm to become more social will hopefully satisfy my definition of “productive”.  

A Traveler’s Tale: How to Survive the Many Modes of Transportation in Morocco: Part II

So I thought it was about time that I write part two of my adventures in traveling around Morocco. I left with the grand taxis which are each so fun and different and honestly there is even more to them than I said. Like certain areas of the country have certain color grand taxis… but anyways I could go on and on.

2. Souk Buses

These are one of the cheapest ways to ride in style. Souk buses are comparable to Greyhound, Peoria Charter Buses, and Megabus… but! the cheap version. Imagine a school bus, but with individual seats, an awesome paint job (chipped blue paint with logo), windows that don’t always open, and a number of objects tied down to the roof. They are cheaper than grand taxis and can end up getting incredibly packed. People sit in the aisle, hang in the door ways, and I can’t remember if I’ve seen it yet, but there could be the occasional person on top of a souk bus.

One interesting thing is that they act like grand taxis. They can go from larger town to even bigger town and can pass through a number of smaller villages or towns on the way. So they will stop anywhere along the destination picking up people and letting people off. Souk buses can feel like they take forever. A three hour drive ends up almost five with the amount of stops and water breaks.

That’s the worst a souk bus can be and honestly most times they aren’t so bad. Sometimes they’re an old nice bus or sometimes they’re not packed. Sometimes you get two seats to yourself next to the window. Sometimes you may be so lucky as to be on a souk bus with a working AC (that usually just blows air around, but better than nothing.)

There are also more expensive bus companies to use in Morocco like CTM, Supratours. They always leave on time, almost always AC, lots of leg room, but of course they are also a bit more expensive than souk buses. Although it’s worth shelling out an extra 20 diharms for the AC in the summer or if you’re going through the rough Marrakech to Ouarzazate pass when it’s hard for even the people with an iron stomach not to get a little queasy. But YAY souk buses, they are most often the way to go.

3. Transit

Are you wondering what the heck a transit is? Transit… is a big box like van and they get there name from the actual name of a model of van called Transit. So not all transits have to be “a Transit”, but any big boxy like van or shuttle looking thing is considered a transit. These vans don’t hold 8 people though, but usually around 15 or more? Depends on how creative the passengers are with the positioning of their selves and how close they want to get.

How is it possible to fit that many people in? Well they rip out the seats and replace them with bus seats kinda. Long bus benches I like to call them. So yeah at least three people fit on a bench, usually there are 3 benches. Two people in the front seat and all the people who get stuck standing along the door or sitting on the floor, that’s how you get all those people in a tiny van, but I can’t forget all the stuff that gets put on the roof, similar to a souk bus.

Transits are usually used in smaller villages going to a bigger village. This is especially true if a town doesn’t have a souk (market) in their town, then they usually have transits that make frequent trips to their souk town. It all depends on the size of the village and the distance they have to drive to reach the nearest big town. For example: My friend lives in Errichidia province and is up on a mountain. Her site is small enough that they don’t have a taxi stand and the terrain can be too difficult for taxis, so the only way to get in and out of her site is by transit. There are only two transits and they leave around 4-5am in the morning to drive 2.5 hours to the nearest big town. The transit drivers will usually have a set time that they leave and either your on the transit or you get stuck in that town. It can be quite tricky for some volunteers.

My town is big enough that there are no transits that go from my town to the next. Although some of the outlying villages do use transits to come into my site. I’ve got it relatively easy having a taxi stand in site.

4. Back of the truck or camio

This is huge near me. It almost seems that transits are used less and people ride in the back of trucks more often. These trucks almost always have a metal frame on the back that goes up high (used for trucks who transport livestock) and as many people as possible will back into the back all standing up and leaning on the frame. The frames are solid and seem safe, but it’s crazy seeing a truck full of people standing up going fast through the mountain roads. I see this a lot on souk day for people heading back to the outlying villages. This form of transportation is definitely prohibited by Peace Corps, so don’t worry. We leave this form of transportation solely for Moroccans.

5. Donkey, horse, foot…

These are all relatively self explanatory, but in the rural areas people do still ride their donkeys, horses, and walk a lot.

Of course there are more than these modes of transportation, but these are the most common we use or see often. Occasionally a person has their own person vehicle, bike, scooter, but I think the five I listed are some of the more exciting in Morocco. I mean who knows which taxi driver you’ll end up with, who you’ll get stuck next to on the souk bus, or what sort of mood your transit driver is in. Whether you’re flying through the mountains or passing a horse and cart by going into the oncoming traffic lane… it’s all part of the adventure and the rush of traveling in Morocco.

I must request that you don’t fret or worry about traveling here. I have yet to hear about a grand taxi accident or transit accident. These drivers have been doing this their whole lives and I trust them. Sometimes we drive down the middle of the road in both lanes, pass in no passing zones, and don’t get me started on petit taxis in the big cities (act just like what we think of as regular taxis, stay in the city and don’t go on long trips), but I mean in the states we have our fair share of crazies on the road. Anywho… I hope this is enlightening on the modes of transport in Morocco. Whichever is chosen, it’s usually an adventure.

A Traveler’s Tale: How to Survive the Many Modes of Transportation in Morocco

I haven’t written anything on exactly how PCV’s travel around this relatively tiny country and it’s a topic that is quite important to a PCV’s sanity or lack there of… why you ask?...

Well to preface all the information I’ll talk about, let me first tell you about my travels the weekend before last. I decided to meet up with a PCV in the capital of our province which is only about 80 km away from my site. If I could hop into a car and drive at a normal speed, it would take almost two hours to arrive in Azilal. Well… since as PCV’s we are not allowed to drive in country (and where in the world would I get a car anyway), we use modes of transportation that more often than not require lots of waiting and scheduling for waiting time. What should have been a two hour trip ended up being a little over 7 hours. I got into town around 7 pm and was hoping to leave the next morning around 10 am. Almost not worth the trip right? I’d say yes, but to make up for it I stayed in Azilal til the afternoon. The trip back... was 8 hours and a required a little light bending of PCV travel rules… oops. So I hope this little short story sums up the wonderful frustrations one can have while traveling in Morocco. Now let me tell you exactly why my trips were so long…

To have a car in Morocco is a wonderful luxury and in a lot of the small towns and villages that PCV’s live, it’s usually safe to say that most families don’t own a car. But it’s not like these towns are isolated, so how do they get around? Here are the top five ways to travel: 1.Grand Taxi 2.Souk Bus 3.Transit 4.The Back of a Truck 5.Donkey, Horse, On foot even. The preferred and Peace Corps approved means of travel are Grand Taxi and Bus (also train, but that’s only between major cities).

What do I mean by grand taxi? Grand taxis are usually old Mercedis Benz or other big boat like cars. A grand taxi does trips between towns, major cities, basicly anywhere. A lot of waiting can be involved when using a grand taxi, because a grand taxi fits 6 passengers and a driver won’t leave until the car is full or all the seats have been paid for. So if you’re lucky enough to be the 6th passenger as soon as you walk to the taxi stand, then off you go, but if you are the first person wanting to go to a destination (depending on the destination of course) then get ready to wait.

It’s incredible the number of factors that go into the estimation of wait time for a taxi to leave… you have to consider if it’s a place people travel to a lot (say big town like Beni Mellal), what time of day it is (anytime near lunch time… no good), what day of week it is (travel when a souk is going on is usually easier), and yeah all sorts of factors. To give a few more examples… the weekend I went to Azilal as I waited in Oui (the town in between Tag and Azilal) for almost 2 and half hours. During that time I watched as 5 (and yes that’s a lot) taxis went to Beni Mellal. But just last weekend when traveling with David, as soon as we got into Oui from Beni Mellal, we were the last 2 to fill a taxi and off we went. No wait time. I like to call it traveler’s luck. You either got it or you don’t, and it’s a cruel thing that comes and goes. I’ve had the worst luck this past month.

Of course if you had the money to pay for extra seats a taxi will leave sooner, but I tend to use it as a last resort. This is where the rule bending comes in… PCV’s are not allowed to travel when it’s dark. I honestly think it’s a good rule considering the roads have no streetlights in the mountains and yeah sometimes grand taxis are scary enough during the day let alone at night. So the weekend I was stuck in Azilal, I finally got to Oui and was stuck there. I was pushing the last 15 minute window I knew I could leave and get back before dark. Thankfully another person in the taxi couldn’t wait and so we split 3 seats between us. It was a hit to my wallet and the latest I’ve ever traveled in Morocco.

Grand taxis deserve their own blog posting and so I’ll talk just a little about the drivers and then pick up this blog later. I like to think that there are two kinds of grand taxi drivers… the ones who drive like bats outta hell and the lil old grandpa’s with their hands at 11 and 2. I’ve grown to love the crazy drivers, because while at times you think they just might drive right off the cliff, they do save you time. Heck I was a fast driver in the States and I’m still a speed demon here, because when you’re driving with grandpa in a super crowded, hot, stinky, taxi up a mountain and he’s going 10 mph… that’s the worst and takes me to the brink of my sanity. So yes, safety aside I want the guy gunning it up the hills and blaring his horn around the corners so he doesn’t have to slow down. Don’t let my perceived craziness of the driving here worry you, dear reader. Every good story needs a little exaggeration.

And while traveling in Morocco can be frustrating at times, its one of those things that Im getting used to and beginning to enjoy. One time I read 4 magazines while waiting for a taxi. Gotta look for the bright side and my reading and people watching is greatly benefiting from long waits. I will continue this blog soon. These are very important aspects of life that need to be addressed and after that, my wedding and other celebration stories thus far. Believe me there are some quirky customs here.

Celebration

Celebrating my 23rd birthday in Morocco and a few observations…

I’ve never been a big birthday person.  I don’t mind doing something small or nothing at all.  So my 23rd was perfect according to my standards.  My closest friend here in Morocco decided to surprise me and came the four hour trip to my site.  But if that wasn’t nice enough, she went out of her way to go the nearest big city and bought all the fixins for really good cold cut sandwiches and a bottle of wine. The last time I ate white bread slices was probably before I left the states.  

Any who my site mate, friend, and I spent the day hiking to the river and later we made spaghetti with homemade sauce.  Enjoyed a few drinks and spent the night talking on my roof.  The next day was spent recovering, per usual.  All in all it was a great birthday.  

Before we came to our final sites, we were all given a timeline of the usual emotions that volunteers face.  So that 3-6 month period is known to be the hardest.  We’re thrust into the culture without our LCF safety net and CBT site mates to rely on.  We’re in the limbo period.  

The only expectations the Peace Corps have of us now is to work on language, start building meaningful relationships, and look for potential counterparts and just integrate.  Easier said than done, believe me. So this is the time where homesickness starts to hit, feel a little lost and unsure of role in community.  

How does this pertain to me… let’s see… homesickness… check.  Uncertainty of what the heck I’m doing here… check.  Emotions everywhere… check.  This place is a roller coaster.  One day I might have a great conversation and feel somewhat confident about language, the next I might not be able to understand the easiest questions. But then there are times when I feel like skipping down the road and hugging strangers on the road.  I want to say “Can you believe I’m here?! This is so hard and I’m here, doing it!”.  

So folks, now is an up period and it was all set off by my birthday.  What a great birthday.  I’m looking forward to gathering in a month for Post Pre-service Training.  Hopefully get some really helpful technically training.

Observations and thoughts…. 

1. With the Fourth of July coming up, I wish I brought a thing of sparklers. 

2. Usually after you move into a new place, then you start to notice the things needing fixed.  My bathroom sink is leaking like crazy and I have noooo idea how to turn the water off. Where do people turn the water off to their faucets or anything if say… their hallway is flooding.  Hopefully the landlord fixes it soon… 

3. Almost all 500 GB of my external hard drive is being used up by movies, tv series, and music that has been swapped between volunteers.  Who knew the amount of free movies I’d end up with.

4. I encountered my first man who would not shake my hand because of his religious beliefs. 

5. Had a guy ask me where my brother was (my site mate), I corrected him and then later 

that same day he asked me where my son was (meaning my site mate). Hahah I got a real kick outta that.  He was thoroughly confused. 

6. 8 adorable mutt puppies are living in my neighbor’s yard.  It takes every ounce of strength I have to not take at least one in.  Tagulefte has a lot of wild dogs and cats.  The other day I counted 10 just in the souk area on my walk home.  

7. Still not quite sure how Turkish toilets work… so it’s a pit underneath the house, apartment, etc. but what happens when they fill? Hm… I must investigate further, that and HOW DO I TURN THE WATER OFF? Haha 

8. I miss grass. Mowing in the summer and smelling fresh cut grass.  Walking around barefoot.

9. I’ve eaten more watermelon in one month then all my previous 23 years combined. 

10. So babies eat normal food as soon as they can… no puree baby food, just some bread soaked in oil or super mushy potatoes, or anything really. Just got me thinking I really don’t know anything about maternal and child health… Any website articles are welcome. What can hurt a kid that age? How much is too much of something for babies? And popcorn definitely a bad idea right? (I didn’t feed the baby popcorn, I even tried to convince him he had no teeth to chew it… it didn’t work). 

But that will do it for now… hope everyone is enjoying my rollercoaster with me.   

Apartment Found!

I haven’t written a blog in while and so here we go… what’s new?

First and most importantly… I found an apartment! Technically we are supposed to live with our host families for 2 months and it’s been one month, one week, but I am so ready to move out and I have been slowly putting together my apartment. I have a good host family and they give me space and the food is really good most of the time, but I’m so ready to not eat dinner at 11 and not eat bread and oil for breakfast. I’m ready to take my bucket baths indoors instead of outside…. Ha and I’m ready to blare my music while I hand wash all my clothes. Also I’m ready to go to the bathroom in peace, (the lock on our bathroom doesn’t work and it’s right by the front door…). Also the bugs that keep eating me up everynight are not my favorite… All those things aside, I’ve enjoyed staying with my host family and look forward to still eating meals with them and seeing them very often. It’s amazing what we get used to and honestly if it weren’t for the new bug bites everyday, I wouldn’t be in such a rush to move out.

But let me see… my apartment is 2 bedrooms, a salon, big kitchen, and I have roof access! The roof access was the most important to me. I can do laundry up there (I already made my clothes line). I can grow plants. I can sunbathe if the mood strikes me. I can read. I can enjoy the stars and even sleep up there if the weather really does get sweltering. Speaking of the heat… we’re probably about the same as Illinois now. 90’s ish most the time, but wow I forgot how much I am able to sweat. No fancy smanshy air conditioning here. So if I’m sweating and so unwilling to go outside here when it’s the 90’s… I can’t imagine what my fellow pcvs are going through to the south where it can get almost 145 degrees. Seriously… I’d be a puddle in that sort of weather. I’d have to sit in a little baby pool and constantly drinking water, because it’ll all come right out through my pores, as quickly as I drink it, I sweat it out. Gross… I know that’s exactly what everyone wanted to know… haha

So just in case if anyone is wondering what I actually am up to everyday now that I’m out here on my own. I don’t do a whole lot…. But the days fly by. On a good day… I go to the health clinic, study, talk to a few people. Do some laundry? Read? Nap? Lately I’ve been cleaning my apartment a lot. Um… have tea with families and I have a few friends. Sometimes we go on walks. Oh yeah… hang out with the site mate. He’s got me into dominoes and watching the Wire. Good stuff.

So yeah… so far very laid back. Soon I hope to go swimming in the river and um… start on my community analysis in depth. It depends on the day, but yeah sometimes I definitely wonder what I’m doing here. I can say that for the most part I’m really happy and enjoying myself. It’s only been 3 months, but so far this whole thing has been a huge confidence booster. I mean I found an apartment without really being able to speak the language well. There are no classified ads or realtors to go through. You find friends and community members to help you connect with the people who have an extra house or empty downstairs. Anyways I hope to start being more consistent with my writing soon and I’ll do my best to get more pictures up soon. I think my pictures speak louder than my words. Hope all is well in the States.

Culture and such

It’s been a little over one week living in my final site… and what is it like to have no schedule, no structure, and being somewhat my own boss again? It’s been good and soon will be great. I say somewhat my own boss, because while still living with a host family my eating and sleeping schedule is pretty much on their clock. So eating around 10:30 at night is still normal and getting up around 7:30ish is still done frequently. Whenever I have control over what food I eat and when I eat… oh man, that’s when I’ll be over the moon, but for now I’m doing well.


I realize I’ve never just written about Moroccan culture yet… So I wanted to write about my favorite customs and encounters with Moroccan culture.

1. I’m a fan of the handshake greeting and the respect shown to elders. Whenever Moroccans greet someone (and doesn’t have to be the first time they meet), they shake hands and then put their hand to their heart, meaning they take the greeting to heart. Also depending on the relationship ladies will often kiss each other’s hands or cheeks. In my first home stay family, the kids every morning would greet the parents with a kiss on the head as a sign of respect and I got a kiss on the cheek. The different types of greetings are vast and take time. If I greet a person in a group, I greet everyone in the group out of respect. This custom will be coming back with me, especially with family. It’s just a warmer way of saying hello.
2. Moroccans eat incredibly late dinners. I’ve also noticed in CBT at least, we ate a lot. Breakfast, midday tea/snack, lunch, tea, more tea, dinner around 9ish? (and that was early). Also lunch is usually the big meal of the day, so dinner tends to be bread and something or soup. 3. God phrases are in everyday language and used bzeff (a lot). Any plan or talk of the future is followed by Inshallah (If God wills it). Inshallah, I love saying it. I don’t believe in destiny, but I appreciate that many Moroccans do and thus this phrase is used. Also lamdullah (Thanks be to God). Anytime you greet someone, this will be used. Everything good? No worries? Family good? Thank God! Good stuff. Also a favorite… Bismillah (In the name of God) usually said before eating or drinking. Who needs praying before a meal when you can just say Bismillah. The quick and easy way to get that prayer done and it sounds cool too.
4. Moroccan hospitality is pretty awesome.
5. Before coming to Morocco I knew that relationships between men and women can be quite different here. Males and females my age don’t socialize together quite like we would in the States. Friendships between men and women are not common. For Muslims “dating” just isn’t done… well sort of. I have a host cousin with a “boyfriend”, but their interactions are basically done only through texting and phone calls. In my site there is a main road with 2 or 3 cafés pretty close to each other and only men go to cafes. So when I walk down the road, I do feel like I’m in man’s land and like I’m intruding, but I have 2 years to test the barriers and I already feel much comfortable with my place among the men. For the most part they just want to know where my site mate is… (who is a man and joker, so he talks to everyone). So I don’t mind hearing Mani Dawd (Where’s David) every couple minutes. I mean it’s only the first week… it may get old, but oh well, one day at a time.
6. The pace of work is slower…. I knew that, I knew that, I knew that… but I had to really try to keep my calm when we waited at the Ministry of Health for almost 4 hours for one paper (that we didn’t even really need) to get signed by a man who didn’t end up coming back. We were told to come back the next day at eleven and we went at noon, but still waited another hour for the paper. I thought I had patience, but I will really need to work on it here. **Also a note… Moroccan sense of time… party starts at 5? Okay, we’ll be there by 7. Add an hour or two to any start time and that’s when it really starts. Ha A very leisurely pace of work and time here.

So those are just a few interesting aspects of Moroccan culture, but very important ones. All in all, I’m starting to really enjoy my final site. Today we went to my host family’s fields and had a picnic under the trees. Also did a short hike to this abandoned house on top of this hill near the fields, about a mile outside town. The view was amazing and the area very suitable for camping. So one day Inshallah, a group of us will be able to camp out there.I foresee these next two years being an interesting combination of work (at a very slow pace, so if I end up only doing one thing here… don’t judge haha) and pleasure. The country of Morocco is gorgeous and I honestly can’t wait to start traveling around it. But for now, my goals are to find a house, meet someone new for tea every other day, and to really start tackling my Berber language. So hard! Ishqqa.

**Life is too short to waste…

Today I am no longer a PCT

I officially swore in today as Peace Corps Volunteer. I am no longer a trainee! Lhamdullah! (thanks be to god, phrase used always here)

The ceremony was short and sweet. There were a few speakers and then I raised my right hand and repeated the oath. No turning back!

There isn't much to say about swearing in, but that I felt extremely proud when the Peace Corps Morocco director talked and when I took the oath I was beaming. It's been a hard 9 weeks and has gone by so fast. Our CBT group has been through a lot to get here and I'm really going to miss having their daily support. I'm looking forward to starting my service and it's weird to think it's finally here. Hopefully at the end of this I will still be full of pride for what I have accomplished, but for now I will take pride in my day to day accomplishments, no matter how small.

To be honest though.... Man I will miss my Azrou family. They are amazing people and the whole community was great. I already have plans to visit them next year Inshallah, but know I will be getting phone calls from them every once in a while. Hopefully my tamazight will be better and I can really express how great they were during training.

For a parting gift, a lot of the members of our CBT printed out pictures and gave them to our host families. My family was over the moon excited when I gave them a photo album with some of the pictures I had taken. It was the first pictures they had of baby Omar, so I think that alone was a hit. Then we went through all the old photos they had while they put them into the photo album and they insisted I take a picture of the family when the twins were just babies. It was incredibly sweet of them. I also gave the kids my jump rope I brought from the States, because honestly.... I hate jumping rope, I'm not going to do it, sure I need to excersise, but not in that form. Well anyway.... my oldest host sister started crying she was so happy. I know they'll get a lot of great use out of it. I hope that we will stay in touch as best as we can. I really did feel like part of the family.

Now comes the hardest part?

We head off to our final sites tomorrow and will be there for 3 months until we all meet again for Post Pre-service training. Now I will be going from structure, schedules, Americans all the time, amazing host family: to lots of free time, lots of pushing myself to meet people, lots of frustrations with language and continuing my learning, new host family and dealing with the burning desire to move out on my own.

I knew what I signed up for. Peace Corps is a challenging, rewarding experience, but really though these next two months.... I might need some cheerleaders. You can do it Spencey! Okay, so I'm not such a bad cheerleader for myself, but a few hoorahs from home make all the difference.

But who knows.... maybe these two months will be a piece of cake. Either way..... I say.... bring it on! I'm a PCV now. :)

Back from site visit...

It's been an interesting week. Visited my final site from Sunday through Friday morning. Life in my new site is a bit different than CBT. Well a lot different. It's quite a bit bigger, in the mountains hour away from another town any direction. It has 2 schools, a highschool, the local government officials, a sbitar with 1 doctor, 1 nurse and 2 midwives. They have 5 internet cafes. Granted one of them only has one computer, but still there are a lot. There is a teleboutique (basicly a phonebooth) on every corner.

My host family is nice, but a lot different than my CBT family. I knew that I had it so good in CBT, that my new host family would have to be super duper amazing to top them and I wasnt really expecting that to be possible. My family has a lot of older extended family and my dad is a nice guy, just seems intimidating. They're a relatively quiet family and actually speak quite a bit of Arabic. Also the little kids only speak Arabic. So I'm definitely going to have to start learning both and work on my French. Unfortunately no one at our sbitar or in the local government speaks the berber dialect I've been working on. It'll be tough but I'm up for the challenge.

I also see why there are two volunteers there. There is no shortage of project ideas and health education oppurtunites. Also the trash problem in town is a little over the top and the wild animal situation. Lots of baby chicks and chickens running around and cats and dogs.

Anywho it was a challenging week and I know I will have to start pushing myself to find people in the community who are willing to help me talk and soon find a Darija, Berber tutor.

Today in Hub, we all shared stories of our sites and it was good to hear. While I thought my town was rough around the edges, I heard worse and then I've heard great stories of people being super excited to already start working with volunteers. It's nice to know we are all in the same boat.

Leaving CBT for a week

It's about a month and a half now in Morocco... and the theme of these past weeks should be "I don't know where I'm going, why we're going, what to say, but HEY I'm in Morocco and this is awesome."

I've been on trips with my host mom to different family members near my CBT and usually I have no idea where we're going exactly or why, but I'm along for the ride. I've had quite the adventure. One time we crossed two very rickety bridges over this almost raging river to get to a town after trekking through fields for almost a half hour and that was only after we finally got a tranzit ride (we waited 2 hours). There are almost too many stories to count.

Just to make sure everyone at home realizes how great my host family is.... so yesterday we went to a really goregous motel of a guy we played soccer with and the point was to practice language and so forth. Well it actually rained! and so it was pretty darn cold out. So we're sitting in the salon drinking mint tea and eating peanuts waiting for our friend to be done with tourists, when he comes in the room with my jacket and he's like... "Hafida here you go." (My Moroccan name is Hafida) And I was quite confused... I didnt wear a jacket or have one the last time we were there. So it turns out my host mom went to the school to bring me my jacket, because it was raining and cold, then walked all the way to the motel when she was told where we were. They are super sweet. I really feel like a little kid that is part of their family. She brings me my coat when it's cold, she runs to the school when I'm sick, and yeah they're all great. My host family set the bar really high for the new host family I meet on Sunday.

One more fun adventure I had this week... I COOKED FOR MY FAMILY. Haha The plan was to make pizza. I mean who doesn't love pizza and they've never had it. After arriving in the hub site to go to the big supermarket, I soon started to doubt this idea.... I mean my family doesn't have an oven. They just make break over a fire and it's sorta like an oven? I still don't understand how the bread making process works. So finding the big supermarket closed, I decided on plan b, spagetthi. I made the sauce from scratch and as I started to grate the first tomato... wow it was rough. So it took almost 2 hours, but by the end I had an awesome enourmous communal plate of spaghetti. Tomatoes, tomato paste, oil, salt, sauteed onions and green peppers, Italian seasoning mix, and it was topped with steamed zucchini. A tad on the salty side but it went well. Even having communal spaghetti! I'm bringing back communal dishes to Illinois, less dishes to wash.

Anyways.... we just got the big news today. Final site announcements. Where we will be living for 2 years! No big deal.... WOW....

I won't say much now, because we're visiting our sites on Sunday and staying for a little less than a week. I'll write after I have my real first experience. But I will say... I'm basically in the mountains, I have a site mate (another health volunteer in my site) so it's sort of biggerish, I hear it's pretty gorgeous? and my new host family in demographics is similar to my family now.

So the site mate part was a bit of a shocker, because we're the only two health site mates, but it'll be fun and if there are two of us, they must have the work. More to come later....!

Correction!

I have to just mention that I was so wrong when I said we only eat couscous on Fridays. No, we eat it allll the time. It's quite delicious and depending on the day I do eat with my hands. Alright just had to make that correction.

Community Based Training So Far....

So I've been in Morocco about 3 1/2 weeks and man has it been intense and wonderful.

First off.... my CBT (community based training) group is really great and we have an amazing language teacher. There are 6 of us and we all have some strong personalities, but balance each other out well.

We're living in a small community of only 350ish people and it's really gorgeous for being sort of a desert town. The town is near a river, so we have some beautiful fields. In the beginning of May, there are tons of bushes that will be blooming a type of Primrose. I hear it's awesome, so I'm looking forward to seeing that.

Maybe the best part of my CBT site is my host family. My host parents are a bit younger (30's) and super patient with me. They have 5 kids, all young. There are 3 girls and 2 boys. My oldest host sister is 12, than a sister who is 7, then 4 year old twins boy and girl, and then the baby boy 5 months. They are such a beautiful and fun family. The host families in my site all seem nice, but so different. I think I lucked out with the kids and the young parents. My host dad and mom also are incredibly nice. They invited everyone over to do a henna party and have tea. Also one night I spent pretending to be a 100 year old woman with the kids and having fake tea time. Such a good way to practice my language. Also when I told them I was going to my hub site this week, the little 4 year old boy kept insisting that I not go, because he'd miss me. I'd heard this every night at dinner. So cute! This family fits me really well and I can already tell it will be hard to leave them in May.

So I suppose I will just walk through a normal training day.

Wake up around 7. Have breakfast (usually bread, jam, scrambled eggs).

Class starts at 8. Language training has been tough, but going well I think?

Tea time at 10. More bread, cheese, sometimes amazing other things from our cook.

More language.

Lunch around 12:30ish or 1 or sometimes later. (The food has been really good!)

After lunch, whoever's turn it is feeds the orange peels to the cow and sheep. haha and yes we do fight over that!

After lunch we have a break. Then one on one tutoring or fun community things.

Tea time!

Go home around 6ish.

Then family time! I either nap or I have more tea or I help with dinner or we watch tv or we dance or we play soccer.

Tea and Dinner is pretty late around 8:30, 9.

Then bed!

So my days are anything but boring and the schedule is the intense part. You have language and then more language and then more time spent with family and mine wants to teach me everything. So it all becomes very intense and overwhelming somedays. My family is really great with understanding I need alone time and naps sometimes to decompress after school. Other days I can't wait to start interacting.

But that's just a typical boringish day.... because we have done some pretty awesome things so far.

-We went to our local health clinic, really interesting and informative.

-We had a meeting with the "mayor" or president of the commune. Then had lunch at his super nice house 2 days later.

-Then he donated a nice soccer ball to us, so we started a 2 hour pickup soccer game with some of the locals. MAN that was fun! Felt good to play again, even if it was on a dirt field, in a skirt and sandals. haha

-We have been to 2 souks (big markets).

-Learned to cook amazing beans and my host mom makes amazing sauce for rice.

-Wandered in the fields learning about the town history

-Had henna done 2 times

-Done a little hiking

-Taught our language teacher, slang and some fun sayings. She loves saying them! She's hilarious.

-Been invited to tea with random families and actually understanding a little!

-Been randomly invited into part of a wedding celebration

-Had host moms dress us up

-Went to the hamam (public bath house). Let's just say it was liberating and I might stick to doing it once in a blue moon. I got super dehydrated and felt like I had a bad hang over, with out the fun. But it was pretty interesting and I did feel super clean.

I just am really enjoying my community and my other group members. Hopefully we'll be going to a wedding this weekend, a relative of the mayor. It's all about connections and networking! We've got the hook up!

The language does still feel so intimidating and to be doing all this on my own soon, seems impossible. But I have a lot of wonderful support and the language just comes in time. I shall end it hear. The sun is about to set and I've been looking forward to a nice hot shower.